Vignettes: Music in Russia

Techno-Trash

There can be no doubt that music still resides in the soul of Russian people.  I’m convinced of this because almost everywhere we went, with the exception of museums, there was music. The strangest and most grating phenomenon was the omnipresence of amplified music blasted on the sidewalks. I still cringe when I think about it because it was so offensive to my ears, that I do not even consider it to be music. I’ve asked several people what genre it is, & they tell me it’s called “Techno.” The blasting amps are placed at the corners of shops, restaurants, or clubs for the purpose of luring customers. We would never knowingly patronize any of these places. While this offensive practice was widespread in St. Petersburg, it was less so in Moscow. It has taken me a while to get beyond its offensiveness, and to understand the motivation. The beat is driving & deafening; the singing is protest yelling; the instrumentation is, as suggested by the name, electronically generated. So, why the appeal? Does it drown out unpleasant thoughts? Is its loud beat the call of the wild? Is it sexy?

I don’t know how long this “ear-trash” has been popular, but I did get one answer to my questions when we were on a weekend cruise on the Volga. At night, on the deck of the stern, in front of the bar, a techno dance was in full swing. As revolving green strobe-lights twinkled, the dance floor filled to capacity with passengers of all ages and both sexes moving rhythmically. Their gyrations continued into the wee hours. Mercifully, I was able to observe these dancers from a distance seeming released from cares, and so happy. So, whether or not this is my taste, obviously some Russians find it good for them. The only objection I still have is that techno should not be forced on anyone. These decibels really do cause deafness, and people who have objections to it should have at least have an escape route.

Folksongs on the Volga

At the prow on the third floor was a big room where a mixed crowd of equal importance to the dancers gathered after dinner to sing folk songs with the ship’s accordionist. These sing-alongs also lasted into the wee hours. I admired how the singers seemed to know all the verses. I learned that Russian folksongs are in minor mode. This doesn’t mean that the songs are sad. On the contrary, they are remarkably happy and uplifting. The lively rhythms are meant to accompany dancing or working. Such joyous dancing, and singing! Who am I to criticize? JJ & I were heartened by the spontaneity. 

Folksongs at Uglish

At our port-of-call, Uglish,* we were surprised by more singing, but this time much more rehearsed and perhaps more “serious.” We were greeted by two women dressed alike in floor-length red & pink folkloric attire with matching large, high headdresses. They never seemed to stop as they harmonized folksongs in constant harmony as a  welcome for tourists to the historic grounds. Their classically-trained voices were loud enough to be heard in the open air & from a distance. Each woman accompanied her singing with a rhythm instrument: one like a castanet, and the other resembling a guerro.** As their sweet voices wafted on the cool air, our son said, “Isn’t that wonderful?” It was indeed!  

Uglish con’d...6 Men in Concert

The musical surprise was hardly over. Uglish is where we found the Russia of yore:  beautifully restored castles and churches, brightly, tastefully, repainted and re-gilded tourettes, & elegant domes. Inside one long, rectangular place of worship a singing ensemble of 6 men drew in & mesmerized tourists. Such rich sustained singing,  controlled and together, is a Russian specialty as each voice fills out the harmonies. Once heard, the bass voice is never forgotten! (Is it human? Does it ever take a breath?) When these groups perform, which is often, they do so without benefit of sheet music. While most of their repertoire is sacred, they also sing secular folk and classical arrangements. It’s possible that they benefit from some kind of government stipend for the arts.  There was no entrance fee, but tourists were encouraged to leave a contribution, which most did.

Uglish con’d… 5 Women sing the mass like angels

In a church close by, a mass had begun accompanied by five women’s voices. Unlike our church choirs and cantors who only sing at appointed times, this chorale never stopped for more than 30 seconds. The priest sometimes tuned in for a phrase or two of liturgy, though he took nothing away from their angelic approach to heaven. Bearded, in long black cossack and tall square toque, the priest gently punctuated parts of the mass, as he moved gracefully in his role as celebrant. In contrast to the men’s sextette these feminine voices were most likely volunteer choristers who practice regularly together. In this quintette, the middle voice, who stood precisely in the middle of a semi-circle, conducted almost imperceptibly. Unlike the men, they did use sheet music, which is normal for church choirs. Their small voices were  perfectly rehearsed for blend, ensemble, and dynamics. Their etherial sound ascended in the cavernous square-shaped sanctuary, its walls covered with jewel colored icons.  Russian Orthodox worshippers stand throughout the mass. Does the music help to forget the discomfort? It surely did ours.

Instruments on the streets…..

one sees men and women carrying orchestral instruments at any given time. The guitar is a favorite of young people. Maybe it has taken the place of balalaika because of its superior sonority and variety of types. We were delighted that the ballet we attended was accompanied by a full live orchestra instead of canned music through amps. We can only suppose that musicians are important to Russians & that the Putin government hesitates to cut back on stipends. Every 4 years in the Van Cliburn Piano Competition in Ft. Worth the world gets to find out just how superior Russian musicians can be. Alexander Kobrin was hands down the 1st place winner in 2005. To be fair the ‘Stans also contribute to the excellence of musicianship. Great string players, anyone?  Great composers, anyone? In this way we are assured that Mother Russia has not forgotten her musical heritage….despite the apparent taste for ear-trash.

* I’ll be writing more on Uglish.