Easy Does It

The red writing says, Marché Couvert (Covered Market), although it functions the same as the open market held twice a week. Our van is in the parking underneath.

In contrast to the previous day of operating in restraints, the next one proved to be one of ease. From the moment I backed the van out of the special hotel parking cave the world seemed to flatten out and open up. With valises repacked we still had to re-park the van & complete our visit in Albi: the Cathedral Sainte Cécile, and the Musée Toulouse Lautrec. We found the entry to the huge underground parking, which was directly under the marché couvert above. Roomy parking spaces were plentiful for a reasonable price, plus we would be metered on an hourly basis so there was no limit.

Don't be hungry when you go grocery & wine shopping here!

Yes, the parking is still under this level!

This cathedral has an appearance like no other. If one did not know better one could even say that it was built much later because of its exterior sobriety. It was built like a fortress soon after the war against the Cathares, called in France Croisade des Albigeois,* was won by the northern barons. In a show of strength the  papacy granted money to the Bishop of Albi to build an impressive cathedral with the adjoining  Palais de la Berbie, Bishop’s Palace.  This massive construction, having no  buttresses, steeples, or gargoyles, consists of small red bricks fabricated locally. It is the largest brick structure in the world. The exterior austerity belies the actual age of this edifice, about 700 years.

One is reassured that it is a place of worship by the great portal which is singularly ornate in keeping with gothic style.

Notice the size of the bricks... & also the way the lower level is solid and slightly bulging like a fortress.

Under the portal

Once inside the powers-that-be have divided nave and apse into separate parts: the nave is free of charge, but no photos may be taken with a flash; the apse has a 10 Euro fee. J.J. was very critical of this decision to lop the church in two saying, there was no way, even if one paid the fee, to get a proper idea of totality. #4 took some “illegal” photos. Still, the interior stuns by its art, and optimal state of repainting and repair. There is too much to take in on just one visit.

Ac

Actually, worshipers are facing toward the back of the church, not toward the "choir." You are looking at the divider.

This photo gives an idea of the colors and detail of the interior arches. 

Crossing the narrow street to the Bishop’s Palace which housed the works of Henri de Toulouse Lautrec, Claire & Grand-mère had to make a pit stop. If the Albigeois were top-o’-the-line for their greatest pair of historical monuments, they were the absolute pits for public facilities. On all our grand tour of Europe east & west this was the only time I ran into a despicable toilette à la Turque. I timed it poorly because we got stuck in an outdoor line with other tour groups. Have to say these were just the nicest of ladies who allowed me to jump line with little Claire. When she saw the whatever-it-was she announced plainly, “I not do that!” Luckily, next to it there was a stall with a modern potty option. The Little Princess was in and out in a trice. As previously noted, she is a professional traveler.

Palais de la Berbie, or Bishop's Palace

Un peu d’histoire…

Henri de Toulouse Lautrec is a somewhat tragic figure for many reasons. Physically his growth was stunted by a congenital disability; he was only 5’1” tall. He suffered greatly from bouts of depression & was just 36 when he died due to alcoholism. 

Joanna & J.J. buying tickets: Notice the gothic arches.

Lautrec came from a wealthy noble family of Albi. He showed artistic promise very young, was encouraged by his mother, and tutored by a relative in the basics of painting and composition. His early works were conventional. I call this his “Horse Period.” You can guess why. We usually identify Lautrec with his famed later works executed in and around the Le Moulin Rouge - Jeanne Avril, Can-Can Dancers, Ladies of the Night, Valentin-Who-Had-No- Bones, Le Chat Noir, & unique works executed in tempera on brown wrapping paper. Thus, he took his place among the Post Impressionists greats, Gauguin and Cezanne.  

There were two reasons for the Museum in Albi. First, Lautrec's mother left a large gift of money before she died for a future museum in Albi. And 2nd, the Louvre turned down the early works first offered by Lautrec's brother, executor of his works. Next he offered them to the Albigeois.  They jumped at the chance to obtain them, which for sure, would fill the vast Bishop’s Palace and provide an overview of the artist’s development. The museum contains only a small portion of the artist’s entire collection which is scattered over the globe.  

Even if we should follow the rules, no one forgets being kicked out of an expensively paid exhibition. There was no attenuation here for the large crowd who had not quite finished viewing. At ten to one the docents began herding us like sheep toward the exit. The doors were slammed shut at one o'clock, only to reopen again at three: mandatory 2 hours for lunch. As it was, the staff had already skinned viewing time on the morning hours, that was probably the reason there were so many visitors still there at mid-day closing. So, like all well-trained Frenchies we would do lunch.

We found a spacious, two-story, brasserie, a casual eatery with  nothing fancy right on the market square. In contrast to the restaurant of the previous evening the decor & furnishings were ultra moderne with dominant black, white, & metallic. Our young waitress explained the menu and accommodated the children. She seemed left to take care of the 2nd floor mezzanine dining room which was filling up with patrons. Not to worry! The hot platters began to arrive quickly from the kitchen below. Our waitress got an assist from a young cook in traditional uniform, crisp white cap (not a toque) and long white bib apron who took the opportunity to wish patrons “Bon Appétit!”.   

Too bad you can't see all of the caption on Claire's pink sweat shirt: I Love Chocolate!

*Crusade of people from Albi