III - Hungarian Anecdotes

A New Shuttle Service at  Budapest Airport 

We were doing our very best merely to make it out of the tunnels to the Lobby. We had been instructed to use the shuttle service instead of a taxi. Now, there might be many honest taxi drivers in Budapest, but so far we had only encountered the ones that tended to circle the city several times, blaring nasty techno music, & overcharging. This new shuttle service was reasonably priced and the driver would take passengers to any destination within Budapest as long as he was given a proper address.  In our case it was a private residence. What more could we ask?

This has nothing to do with the story. However, just about everywhere we went there were some locals in fancy dress. What was the special occasion?

First we went to the Tourist Office. We waited for about 10 minutes while three nicely uniformed women chatted; then one looked up to address our query. She indicated the shuttle ticket window a bit further on mentioning a few markers along the way. It was easy enough to find. Through the glass partition we perceived buses, taxis and shuttle vans waiting just outside. J.J. quickly purchased our tickets. A pretty young Hungarian instructed J.J. in strained English to wait in line. She  pointed vaguely into space. We both looked for some marker to indicate where the line began; there was none. We looked for some people in a line; there weren’t any. 

A few minutes later an American couple wandered toward us and asked where the line was. We told them what we knew. We all formed a “line.” And then the wait began. Nothing seemed to be happening. The American lady & I began to make small talk. But as time wore on she wondered aloud if it wouldn’t be better just to hail a taxi. Remember, they had just bought 2 fares for around $30. We assured them that no, they would be glad they had waited. Taxis wouldn’t be a better deal. We could see passengers loading into shuttle vans. Why not us? 

Then J.J. decided to ask again just to make sure that we understood correctly. We had. Obviously, “Cutie” was irritated when she said, “You must make a line there!” She pointed again into the middle of nowhere. “You will be leaving soon.”  Why weren’t We-4 reassured? Just then J.J. noticed that there was a discreet overhead lighted sign with numbers scrolling slowly.  Aha! Could these be our ticket numbers! We didn’t know about the “line,” but it was obvious our numbers were coming up soon. J.J. figured out that when our numbers appeared we should go outside to find our shuttle.

Eventually, there were a few more travelers in our shuttle, but since they knew the system they hadn’t stood in the vague “line.” They had been off having coffee or some such, merely observing from a distance. We were left wondering if the “hostess” was unable to just say as she pointed, “Keep an eye on the sign for your number.” Or, she could have mimed it. We would have understood. Or, did she enjoy bossing people around to wait in a line. All told, we felt a bit silly.

Illegal Ducks

The speck in the middle is Illegal Duck

Gina explained that the EU wanted to eradicate ducks in the Danube because they were polluters. J.J. & I were incredulous. “You’re not serious, are you?” She answered, “But, of course! Ducks are very dirty and they multiply.” Now, recall that Hungarians are administrators. If the law says “No Ducks,” no ducks it is! But, remember also that J.J. & I  have a tendency toward anarchy. While we were in the town of Stendre (see previous blog for photos), as we sat on benches overlooking the Danube, what did we see? One small duck rather out in the middle of its flow. With mischief in our hearts we quickly declared our finding. “Oh look, Gina, out there! It’s a duck!” She checked & sure enough there he was swimming & fishing at his leisure. She announced imperiously, “Well, he’s illegal! He’s not supposed to be there!”

Ceramic Fish: Did the duck imagine his meal as colorful as this? 

Delayed Reaction

Angels watchin' over me.....Certainly not the docent!

I have no idea why I was clicking away taking all these photos of icons. I'm not such a great picture-taker. As we went up into a special gallery attached to the church on the hill (see previous post), I continued on my photo shoot. I briefly noticed a beautiful young woman seated at the doorway reading a book. Could she be the docent? I continued clicking & she continued reading, as the 3 of us spoke in low voices commenting here and there. After about 15 minutes, like a statue coming alive she floated over to me and said, “You must not photograph the icons. You have to stop and leave.” Truly, I had not seen any “No Photo” signs, but I admit that I should have assumed that “no photos” was de rigeur. I said, “Okay, I’ll stop & leave.” But then, she backtracked saying, “No you can stay, but just don’t take anymore photos.” That was fair enough. Hadn't she noticed that we were the only visitors? Her book must have been really engrossing.

All is well.

Buying train tickets

The following  is not really an anecdote but a comparison. We want to give you a specific example of one of the great improvements made between 2004 to 2012. We believe this is one result of EU “conditions.” We’ve been informed that the EU provides funds which are applied toward improvement of touristic infrastructures.

When we went to buy train tickets in 2004 the whole process was a lengthy ordeal. The train station was old and dilapidated. Surely it hadn’t been retouched since the in the early 20th century. The ticketing hall of about 12 windows was cavernous, cold, and obviously built for long, standing, waiting lines.

We had come well in advance of our departure date. It seemed to us like each purchaser took an extra long time at the window. But then we became aware that there was still no computer technology in place, hence the whole process was manual. There were only two windows open. Neither ticket seller was in any hurry. Sometimes each would leave for extended periods with no explanation. I think we stood in line for most of the morning. 

Small but imperious Gina fought for our cause to keep our place in line. Understand that we were buying two different things: tickets and overnight sleeping berths. Normally, we should have waited in two separate lines. But with Gina's forcefulness we stood our ground, as we manned a place in both lines. If we didn’t know much about waiting in interminable lines in countries behind the Iron Curtain, we surely got a dose of it. Still in 2004 this experience was a remnant of those days. 

Fast forward to 2012. We hardly recognized the historic train station. It had been repainted and refurbished. The interior seemed changed. I’m sure the volume was still the same, but it had been reconfigured & modernized beyond recognition. Tickets were now sold in a bright, glassed in room with several windows in a circular pattern. Now, travelers could sit while waiting. There was a number dispenser for purchasers which were posted in the order they were taken on a scrolling sign. It still took more time than we usually think is normal, but the improvement was remarkable. We were served by a cheerful, helpful young woman. Best of all, we could do something else that morning!

An Organ Concert at St. Stephen's Basilica 

There is nothing any more grandiose or ornate Hapsburg rococo style than the Basilica located close to the massive Parliament buildings. On this day we were going to accomplish two things: visit the basilica and enjoy an organ concert. Hungarians love music and everyday there are several concerts open to the public. Citizens and tourists attend these functions in droves. As we climbed the many steps -- because the basilica is on a raised platform--we were among many other sightseers and concert goers. We bought our tickets and then went inside to visit the interior before the concert, thinking we would merely take our seats right before. Oh no, not to be! All of us sightseers were suddenly hustled outside. Even though we showed the hustlers our concert tickets, they said we must all leave. We stood outside for more than half an hour. The only thing we can figure is that they were making sure that there were no stowaways trying to take in a free concert. Still, I think it was a strange way to handle things.

Parliament at night from the river cruise boat