Friday, August 3, 2012

Logistics: Catching the TGV to Alsace


Schedule: 
8:30 Catch the Air France bus to Roissy CDG airport
9:15 Find #4 with his two children at the (you-can’t-miss-it) TGV Information Center 
9:40 Catch the TGV* bound for Strasbourg in Alsace
Joanna: Who thought this would work?
JJ: # 3, of course.
From Paris to Roissy CDG
Between Tuscany and Alsace there was a layover of a few days at the garçonnière** in Paris. It was during this time that we went to Roland Garros. But soon enough our rest was over and we needed to head back to the bustling life of a tourist. Being a tourist is work, exciting, but hard work just the same. Our next leg was Alsace, that province to the far east of France which has historically been tossed between France & Germany. Even though  Alsatians are pretty germanic-looking, & some even still speak a German dialect, they would rather be French. No doubt some of their Frenchness is expressed in their love for vibrant colors on their buildings and houses. As you shall see, they are a wonderfully strange lot. 
But for now, our travel logistics provide another short tale. First off, you need to know that just getting from the Arc de Triomphe in Paris to the major airport of the north is one helluva project. We had to get up at 6 a.m. to catch a specially provided bus, called a car. It’s not that the stop is so very far by foot from our apartment. In fact it is just one city block at a gentle incline of 30 degrees. Still for senior citizens, walking & pushing a couple of well-packed suitcases, it takes a bit of effort. But, as for every tourist, many things have to be done before the door is locked & sardine-sized elevators are twice taken to the ground floor. JJ must, absolutely must, have enjoyed his freshly baked croissants and baguette.  While he was moving at the tempo of “Sheep may safely graze,” as usual taking his time to savor every epicurean moment, Joanna, on the other hand, was pushing the unflagging rhythm of a Bach courante. 
We were out of breath & exhilarated at the top of the hill.  We were there at  8:15 sharp & our intention was to take the car which leaves on the half-hour or 8:30. The driver announced that he would be taking his morning café & that he & the luggage loader would be back in 20 minutes. Already that’s five minutes past the official departure time which we were counting on. Travelers on a schedule could just cool their heels. Well, their cafés took about 10 minutes longer than he said, & he was in no hurry as we paid our fares or presented tickets for composting. The car, which by the way is a luxury tour bus, was filling up with travelers eager to make a connection at Roissy. Most of us settled in, merely waiting to get rolling when an elderly man climbed on and began altercating with the driver. Everyone was privy to his case: he felt that he was entitled to free ride because he was a retiree of SNCF***, an unquestioned perk of French railroad retirees. But, our Air France car had nothing to do with SNCF. Everyone pays. No exceptions. He wouldn’t let it go. Oh, it was a long harangue. The retiree was loud and the driver was soft and patient. At last the driver called his supervisor. Yes, & we were all antsy and wanted to murder the retiree. But, we also thought the driver was too long-suffering. Couldn’t he just be rude like some Frenchies and send him on his way? We were all ready to shoot him, too, except that he had to drive us to the airport.  All of our connections were at stake! What were these two farts thinking anyway? Why was the bus driver being so nice?  After being informed by the supervisor (on speaker phone no less!) that he would have to pay, the retiree stomped off and we were free to go. But, we were so off-schedule! We began rolling at 8:55 and picking up more travelers at another stop! Miraculously, morning traffic flowed well & we arrived at Roissy at about 9:15.  
La Salle des Pas Perdus
Now, I ask you. How were we going to push our luggage through the maze to Terminal 2A, connect with #4 and catch our train by 9:40? It started out badly when two corridors diverged in an underground parking lot. As I was choosing the wrong one, I collared a woman in some kind of uniform to ask directions to terminal 2A. Continuing her fast pace she called out, “It’s the other direction. Just take the elevator.”  Actually, we were fortunate that the lifts delivered us right into the middle of the 2A Salle des Pas Perdus. (French can be colorful. A waiting room is called “The Hall of Lost Footsteps.) I told JJ to find a waiting seat and watch the bags while I crisscrossed a hall the size of a gymnasium to find #4 & 2 little kids. #3 had said, “Meet at the TGV Information Center. You can’t miss it” Yeah, right. Kiosks with travelers milling around, glassed in ticket counters with lines beyond the doors, free standing ticket machines with waiting lines, travelers pushing, carrying luggage everywhere, plenty of lost footsteps for everyone.  It was “Where’s Waldo?”, only in real life. I was frantic. Alas, we might not make our train!
Beginning to despair, I bumped smack into the Texas Trio! Out of nowhere they calmly strolled into the Salle: a tall young man pushing two enormous suitcases with his sturdy pint-sized side-kicks each pulling a miniature suitcase. #4 said he, also, was wondering how in the world we would meet at the you-can’t-miss-it TGV Info Center. We wasted no time finding the platforms for TGV trains which were mercifully adjacent to the Salle, visible & attainable on 2 levels by escalator.
From presto, we went to adagio. We discovered that neither the exact time, nor the platform number had been posted on the overhead panels. In my usual fashion I asked other travelers for a clarification. They explained that T.B.A.--To Be Announced-- had become the norm for trains leaving from Roissy. Old Europe, so renowned for running trains on time and efficiently, had changed. This last trip there were several instances in which the exact time and track were undecided until the last few minutes. As it turned out we had time to visit Madame Pipi**** & board in a timely manner. Miraculously, we made the train and we didn’t lose that many footsteps. 
Moral: In old Europe give yourself plenty of time for the unexpected. 
* TGV stands for Trains à Grande Vitesse - Trains of Great Speed
** Small apartment. This term used to be used for a tiny space where young men met with their friends & had freedom from adult supervision. But now we just think the word is cute.
***Societé Nationale des Chemins de fer Français - National Society of Railroads
****Pipi pronounced pee-pee. This is what we call toilets that are watched over and kept clean by a (sometimes nice) lady.

5 comments:

  1. All this travelling with your 'new' knee.. pusking suitcases.. you and ole JJ are amaaaazing! How SHE would have lurved to be with you in Alsace.. we know that YumYum is wonderful! Please tell us about this.. such a lovely Blog, please write more often..
    Best wishes from HER and ME.
    GeeGee Parrot.

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  2. That was a funny post, but all too true. #4 was scratching his head a bit when we had to hike several hundred meters downhill to front door of the garconniere, all while #3 was telling everyone that the Car stop was directly "in front" of his apartment building. The morning after, #4 had to drag uphill some pretty heavy luggage while making sure the two little ones didn't get hit by cars in the intervening alleys on the way to the car stop. Not too easy, it can be told, but still a lot more convenient than taking three different metro trains to get to CDG.

    #3's description of the TGV information office was also met with skepticism by #4, especially considering that #4 had stayed at the Sheraton Hotel directly above the station for a few days the year before, and had studied the layout of that station. #3's description of the space didn't quit make sense. You should have also included in your post the fact that the sole escalator down to the platform was not working, and poor ol' #4 was busy dragging all the luggage single-handedly down the steps--ugh! Overall that station was in bad shape and needed a lot of repair.

    #4 also had trouble being on time for the rendesvous with Joanna & JJ, what with the convoluted path between the plane,customs, and the baggage claim. Still the little ones were quite helpful and helped push the bags on the straightaway portions of the CDG labyrinth. #4 still marvels how everything came together despite the compressed schedule.

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  3. As Chesterton says, "An adventure is only an inconvenience rightly considered. An inconvenience is an adventure wrongly considered." I suppose this applies to those who love travelling. To me, making these connections, getting here and there, taking this train or this plane, all amounts to whole lot of waiting. I'd lose my patience with a driver who decided to go have a coffee at the possible expense of his passengers missing their connection.

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    1. #7 makes his pronouncements. G.K. Chesterton also says that a human's life on earth is a romance (adventure. Of course, I paraphrase.) So even if you think you've got everything planned out, there's going to be something you can't control. Be my guest, #7, & choose the kind of romance/adventure that best suits you. I can assure you that you wouldn't have been waiting around much on this particular morning.

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  4. Now at least now my readers know that I don't exaggerate. These are details provided from the point of view of #4, a major actor in this story. I did not recall that the escalator wasn't working. There were so many stations where the escalators weren't working, or had none at all. I guess this was a "station" but it was so much a part of the "airport labyrinth" it was just another "place" we had to find.

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